Facts and myths about Lithuanian vodka

The first written account of the word vodka is from the mid 1800s, so despite the fact that the beverage itself probably has been around for a longer period of time, vodka in its current form is a rather recent invention. As indeed are most destilled spirits of strong potency. However, more crudely manufactured destilled beverages have a far longer history.

Home made moonshine is still made in Lithuania, particularly in the countryside, and this beverage is typically somewhat stronger than what can be bought is shops. As most homemade vodkas, its potency varies from 40 to 96 percent, depending on the manufacturers motives. Purity does however not alone make great taste, as anyone who has ever tasted 96% pure vodka will agree.

Many Lithuanians are for good reason proud of their national tradition when it comes to vodka production. Some are even so fiercly proud that they have no problems with bending the truth a bit when they fill thirsty visitors inn on their glorious national achievements in the field of vodka making. Here are some claims you are likely to hear:

Lithuanian Auksine vodka

#1 Lithuanians invented vodka

Claims to having invented a technique does however not mean that you are particularly good at it. The chinese for instance invented gunpowder hundreds of years ago, but have yet to develop a decent firearm. Since most scholars agree that the modern term vodka, which is connected to the word water, is a more recent term, the fact that the Lithuanians still use the word for burning when referring to this drink, points in the direction that they might in fact have invented some early type of vodka. Although, this is difficult to prove.

Lithuanian Bajoru vodka

#2 Lithuanian vodka is the worlds` best vodka

This might well be true, even though the entire spectre of qualities are represented in the Lithuanian vodka market - from divine drops to liquids indistinguishable from toxic waste. Speaking for my self, I can at least say that the best vodka I`ve ever had is a Lithuanian brand.  And that Lithuanian vodka is greatly underestimated in comparason to many other internationally known vodka brands. Like for instance the unexpainably popular swedish brand Absolute Vodka, which in comparason tastes more like a chemical for cleaning windows. At least they take vodka seriously in this country, and that is probably why they have so many successful brands.

In my opinion, this is the best Lithuanian vodka

#3 Lithuanians drink massive ammounts of vodka

This is undoubtable true for some, although most Lithuanians walking the streets appear rather sober to me. But there are of course exceptions. Most households do however keep a stash of vodka, since this traditional product has taken on a variety of different uses. From universal heavy-duty cleaning agent and active ingredient in home made cosmetics, to medical supply for both internal and external use. For several diseases it is in fact possible to first drink yourself into symptoms, and then cure yourself using the same vodka - But this time taken externally.

Vodka section in a Lithuanian hardware store

#4 Vodka is available all over in Lithuania

Well, if compared to western societies (and particularly my own), this claim is virtually true.
Vodka can be found in all kinds of shops, from supermarkets to gas stations and even hardware stores. And until recently it was available all night is some shops. EU legislators, however, fail to see the practical purpose of this, so the policies have been somewhat restricted in recent years. But for visitors from more restrictive countries (like Scandinavian countries) this place is still like one big duty free shop, with cheap vodka available everywhere.

Vodka in a plastic cup. Aparently, there is a market for such a product

#5 Public drunkenness is accepted in Lithuania

Just because something occurs, it does not mean that it is accepted. And besides, there is a time and place for everything. Vodka is quite common in Lithuania, but public drunkenness is not that common.  At least not if you want to be taken seriously. And as a tourist you would usually want to be taken seriously, so I recommend to avoid getting pissed in public. Observing this rule will keep you out of a lot of trouble. And PS: Even though it doesn`t seem so, the legal limit for driving under the influence is the same as in the rest of the EU.

Last tips:

• For those of you visiting Lithuania and not taking a fancy to the local vodka - have a beer. Lithuanian beer is far better than its virtually non-existant international reputation.
• For those of you who prefer vodka, have a look at my vodka test for recommendations on which vodka to choose

The Curonian spit in one day

Yes, it is possible, although not advisable. I usually recommend spending more than one day. But then again, sometimes a day is all you have.

The Curonian spit - possible to cover in a day

Assuming that Klaipeda is your base and that you are organizing the excursion yourself, you first of all need transportation. Busses not belonging to tourist parties are few and far between on the spit, so if you didn`t bring your own car you should rent one. Or a motorcycle, if there is only one or two of you.

The Ferry from Klaipeda to the Curonian spit

If driving is not an option, there is a boat route from Klaipeda to the Sea Museum which allows you to visit the northern tip of the spit on foot. This does however not allow you to visit the small fishing villages further south, as they are too far away to reach without transportation.

Set off early. Most of the people going to the Curonian spit come from further away than Klaipeda, so the busiest time on the ferry is not until later in the day. Leaving just after the morning rush in the city is perhaps a good idea. Then keep driving all the way until you reach Nida.

Nida - the place to start

In Nida you will find enough things to do to keep you entertained until it`s time for lunch. Preferably, an early lunch. Have a walk in the village itself and visit a museum or two, like for instance the Thomas Mann museum. A visit to the white dunes is also recommended, but those are outside the village so that you can do on your way back.

The Nida dunes

After walking around for a few hours, you will probably start remembering what products you need from the nearest shop to endure the rest of the day. Like water, suncream, new shoes and similar. Luckily, Nida is the only place on the Curonian spit that has a proper shop, and a visit there might be in order before having luch. The area around the pier has several good places for that purpose, and I recommend a lavish plate of herring. This is a fishing community, after all.

Traditional fishing community architecture in Nida

After dinner, it is time to leave and head north again. Check the white dunes on the way out, and the beach if you have to. Neither should take up too much of your time. The next stop is Preila, only about six kilometers away. Take a quick walk through the village, have a cup of coffe or glas beer (if someone else is driving, that is), and make a quick visit to the beach if you want to.  A visit to the beach usually has no place in a one day program, but if you are hell bent on doing so anyway you should do it in Nida if you want fine sand, or in one of the smaller villages if you want peace and quiet. I recommend the quiet beaches, like the one in Preila.

Preila beach

From Preila you head towards Pervalka, some five kilometers further north. If you`ve wasted time on the beach and is starting to feel hungry again, it`s not a bad idea to eat here. Cold beetroot soup or herring I must recommend once again. Mostly because the best herring I have ever had was served to me in a restaurant in Pervalka. Walk the streets of the village and enjoy the great view of the Curonian lagoon before it is time to get back on the road yet again.

The beach is not bad in Pervalka either

This time for a bit longer drive. About 15 kilometers further north lies the village of Juodkrantė, and there you should spend at least a couple of hours. This place also has a nice beach promenade, and in combination with the expanding sculpture park, it offers good opportunities for a scenic walk. If you are in the mood for food, this is also the place to but smoked fish, which is a local speciality. I recommend smoked eel, although they sell at outrageous prices these days. Probably because they are hard to come by legally in other countries these days.

Having smoked eel in Juodkrante

Don`t speed too much, even though everybody else does, and make sure to make a complete stop at the stop sign by the toll booth. The police here seem to be rather active these days. Also, those paying close attention will have noticed a pattern in my recommendations for the villages on the spit – you should walk through all of them. The reason for this is that walking and observing is how I think time is best spent if you only have one day to visit the Curonian spit. You want to see the place, and not waste time looking through souvenir shops and improvised museums that basically look more or less the same all over the country.

The promenade in Joudkrante

At the end of the day, if there is still time, go to the northernmost point on the spit and enjoy the view to Klaipeda. The Sea museum will probably be closed by then, but if it isn`t it is well worth a visit. If you spend the extra Euros and time on a visit to the dolphinarium, you will not regret it. Although the view is the main point, that and the realization that this is all you would have seen of the Curonian spit had you not rented that car.

What Klaipeda looks like from the tip of the spit

And that, ladies and gentlemen, is how you cover the entire Curonian spit in just one a day.

AirInn – the Vilnius airport hotel

What the hell happened to my favorite hotel?!? You leave your favorite hotel unattended for only a year or two, and some inconsiderate capitalists come and ruin it completely. I was recently back to my old “home away from home” in Lithuania – The Skrydis hotel. Only to discover that everything had changed, and in my opinion not to the better. All the details that made staying at this hotel an experience in itself were gone.

One thing that at least hasn`t changed is the short distance to the airport

The old name was gone and replaced with “AirInn”. Some made-up western word devoid of meaning. Why not also call it AirOut? At least that way they could have kept the two counters they had at the time when two hotels shared the same building (a somewhat typical Lithuanian phenomenon). Anyway, the national and for foreigners somewhat misplaced name “Skrydis” was better.

The Airinn lounge today - like any other hotel

The receptionist was gone. This soviet-style older woman with her reassuring uniform and lacking understanding of English nicely reminded visitors that they were indeed in Eastern Europe. Her replacements, the tanned young women with their fluent English, almost make you feel at home, and this to me is not really a big point when I go on holiday. If I had wanted to feel at home, I would have stayed at home. After all, I was already there to begin with.

They even installed a lavish fish tank

The breakfast chef, if I can call him that, was gone. My reluctance to call him a chef is connected to the fact that I somewhat doubt whether he had any formal training at all. And since I am uncertain, I might as well call him a chef. This cheeky young man would jokingly point at me with his knife before taking my order and say “I know you”, before going back to flirting with the bored waitresses and composing a breakfast plate that could insult even a fasting monk. The kitchen staff they have today probably wouldn`t even dream of any such unexpected indiscretions. They seemed mostly preoccupied with preparing food.  

And can you imagine - free Internet access. Back in the good old days we had to fight for our Internet access 

The soviet elevators were gone. These timeless contraptions that were built to last a lifetime, at a time when obesity and intimacy issues must have been rather uncommon, used to be standard in most Lithuanian hotels but are now getting rarer and rarer as the hotels become gradually more westernized. Even this hotel got rid of its old elevator with its indestructible imitated wooden panels and the narrow doorway, which clearly sends the message that: “If you are too fat to squeeze through here, you should probably take the stairs anyway”. Now they have some boring German elevator that takes you to the second floor without reminding you that you are a mere mortal creature whose life can end at any time. I guess that`s what passes for progress these days. Next time I go back I wouldn`t be surprised if the elevator even plays music.

Ever wondered wheter you really pressed the button or not?
This was not an issue in soviet elevators

And last but not least – the low prices are gone. I used to be able to stay in this hotel for 100 Litas, but now they charge virtually the same as western hotels. This is probably due to the fact that the hotel has turned into some kind of wannabe western hotel, but that does not really justify me paying more for a lesser experience. That being said, I still strongly recommend this hotel because of its unbeatable location and the fact that traffic in Vilnius can be a real bitch in the morning. But there is no longer as much of a reason to enjoy your stay as there used to be.

Some highlights from the Vilnius airport hotel, from the time when it was the best hotel deal in the city

What is wrong with you people? Why can`t you leave your cultural heritage alone?

Why go to Lithuania

1. It`s original. The place has a bad reputation as a holiday destination, so not many people go. And those who do only visit a limited area in the capital or a few stops for tour busses. As a consequence, most foreigners who have even been to Lithuania have all seen the same stuff.
2. It`s cheap. At least for now. It used to be even cheaper, but if you mostly buy products that are locally made this is still one of the cheaper destinations in Europe. Eating in restaurants, having your nails done and that type of thing. Hotels have suddenly become rather expensive, but that is hopefully just a temporary thing.
3. It`s underestimated. Lithuania, like most small nations in Europe, can seldom boast to be the best in anything.  This is also true when it comes to what attracts tourists. There is always some other countries that does it bigger, better, cheaper or more spectacular. Lithuania on the other hand can sometimes compete when it comes to “doing it real”, with Rumsiskes and the Curonian spit as a prime examples. This fact is however often overlooked because the rest of the country is neither biggest, best, cheapest or most spectacular.
4. It`s always available. You don`t have to stand in line to visit Lithuania. Most people are in fact heading in the opposite direction. This means that there will not be crowds of other tourists at the various attractions, no problems getting a room in a hotel without having a reservation, and certainly no problem getting a table in a restaurant.
5. And…you`re welcome! Since Lithuania is among the least popular holiday destinations in Europe, you will find that enthusiastic foreign travelers are generally welcome there.
   
   

   

   
   

Many Lithuanians seemingly even hate their own country. Until you criticize it, that is.