Napoleon's Hill, Kaunas

Well, it’s a hill. And Napoleon may or may not have been here. According to legend, this is anyway the spot where L'Empereur stood and watched his army cross the Nemunas river during the 1812 campaign against Russia. A move which in many ways marked the start of the offensive that would eventually lead to his downfall.




There is a sign at the foot of the hill, and that is pretty much it. No pretentious exhibitions, no posters full of sensational claims of possible historical importance. Just a simple sign and some maple trees.

It is in many ways a good spot for an emperor with a sense of drama to witness such an event, since it gives a good view of both the river and the city. With its staggering 63 meters it is one of the highest points around. Aside from the name, there is however little on the hill that reminds of Napoleon. Visitors looking to get closer to the man himself would be better advised to go to his tomb in Paris.



More Maple trees

Those looking to get closer to his dream of concoring Russian would on the other hand greatly benefit from a visit to his hill in Kaunas. From here such a task can seem possible. Standing on a hill, overlooking an almost invincible army about to cross a seemingly mighty river.





So many maple trees in fact, that if Napoleon were to invade Russia today he would probably not choose this place as a lookout point. After all, nowadays you can hardly even see the river.  

 

According to Tolstoj, the river even proved its might at that occation. According to him, a number of polish cavalerymen lost their lives while trying to cross it at a narrow but rather dangerous bend. Only so they could later boast that they were the first unit to cross into Russia.

 

 

 

The hill from a distance

 

The hill itself seems to be the remains of an old hillfort. I am no expert in these matters, but experience has taught me that in this part of the world – if there are no other, similar hills around – you are usually dealing with a hillfort. It is anyway a beautiful place with a good (although not spectacular) view. The place is a “must see” for Napoleonic enthusiasts, and more of a “whatever” for most other people.

 Rated: “Mostly for enthusiasts”