Kaunas

In many ways, this is the Lithuanian heartlands. People from Šiauliai or Panevėžys would probably disagree, since they are reputed to view themselves as more Lithuanian than most other Lithuanians, but Kaunas is still the center of the traditional Lithuanian nation. Manifested for instance by the fact that the city was used as a an improvised capital when the actual capital Vilnius, situated in a more marginal area largely populated by poles, was lost for a period of time in the turbulent years between the two world wars. In those days, Lithuanians retreated to what in many ways can be called the Lithuanian Alamo – Kaunas. Many of the more majestic buildings in the city were erected during its years as capital.

  



Kaunas old town during the Christmas holiday

 

 

 

As is so often the case, nobody knows for sure how old the city is. Local legends claim it to be almost 2000 years old, and somehow connected to Romans in exile, while others claim it was founded around 1030. In other words a difference in time of almost 1000 years. The roman connection seems a little far-fetched to me, so I am more inclined to believe the 1030-ish story. This at least, more or less, coincides with the introduction of Christianity in Scandinavia and the end of the Viking invasions, and similar reasons as to why a city would be founded it this particular place at that particular time. Kaunas would have been easy to reach with Viking vessels from the Curonian lagoon, going up the Nemunas river.




The Nemunas river. Despite being a shallow river, it would still have allowed Vikings to Reach Kaunas. Had it been there at the time

The possibility of navigating up this river is also illustrated by the fact that the Hanseatic League stretched as far as Kaunas, which in turn is the most likely explanation to why the city has a medieval sailing ship in its coat of arms. This was actually the only Lithuanian city they bothered to establish a permanent office in during their reign as merchant kings in northern Europe, so Kaunas must have been either very significant, or the other Lithuanian cities were very insignificant at the time.



After visiting the old town, you can walk back along the riverbank. Ending up in the shopping mall Akropolis, from which the picture is taken

Visitors should spend at least a couple of days in Kaunas. Walk the streets, visit the museums and shops, and have some good food in the better (but not too flashy) restaurants. A good walking route is starting at the church commonly called Soboras, walking along the avenue until you reach the old town, then going through the park, and heading back along the banks of the Nemunas. Ending up in the Akropolis mall. This will give you a diverse insight into parts of Lithuanian society.



The backside of the Kaunas old town. Some might actually prefer it to the front.

What you want to see in Kaunas depends on who you are. If you are Japanese, you would want to see the house of Sugihara, if you are French you would probably want to visit Napoleons hill. Nerds like the museum of telecommunications, and teenagers want to go shopping. If I were to suggest a place to visit for everyone, it would have to be the old town. As a part of an extensive walk around the city center. 

 



A part of the old town. Most people agree that it`s nice

Where you want to stay also depends on who you are and what preferences you have. If you are rather spoiled and inclined to complain about such everyday trifles the occasional absence of hot water, the lack of TV-channels in understandable languages or an unreliable internet connection, you should choose one of the more exclusive hotels. They keep to western standards, but you should also be prepared to pay western prices. Personally, I would go for one of the traditional or smaller hotels. The standard is quite acceptable for most people, and the money you will save will give you much more joy if spent for instance in the many restaurants in Kaunas.




You will most likely run into this man during your visit to Kaunas. Please give him something more original to hold on to than an empty paper cup

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