The elusive catacombs of Kaunas

The very word catacombs has a somewhat appealing effect on many people, myself included. They are usually associated with both secret activities and hidden treasures, although perhaps more correctly defined as “human-made subterranean passageways for religious practice, commonly used as burial grounds”. That description might not spell tourist attraction to most people, but then again – tourists in Lithuania do to tend to descend on the country’s many churches. Which must be said to be the above ground alternative of a catacomb. So one could assume that in the catacombs, you would get the same experience, the only difference being that you are deprived of lighting and placed in a confined space under ground.  Being a tourist seeking the unusual, even if this also sometimes means the impractical, I was of course interested.




From the outside it is an impressive church, which fuels the optimism regarding the alleged catacombs beneath



In a country that by Scandinavian standards is flat as a pancake, and where the ground water seems only to be a few shovel throws away, the very idea of creating catacombs seems rather futile. I was therefore pleasantly surprised when wikitravel.org could reveal the existence of catacombs beneath the Church of St. Michael the Archangel in Kaunas. The large and impractical building commonly known as Soboras at the southern end of Laisves Avenue. My first attempts at entering the catacombs started in 2007.

 

As one can see, not the most staggering of interiors. All white walls do not really spell success as a background on Instagram.

At first, I was completely unsuccessful, since none of the locals I talked to had ever heard about such catacombs. They probably thought I was confused. During later visits, I made sporadic attempts at entering the building, but always found it closed. Since this is more of a local religious institution, rather than a tourist sight, it caters mostly to worshipers. And they, as we know, like to keep awkward opening hours. Eventually, during the winter of 2011, I was able to gain access during mass for the first time. Only to be told by the staff that they “had never heard of any catacombs”.



Beneath this colossal pile of bricks lays the elusive catacombs. I will enter then one day, and by God I will examine them. Whether they be even remotely interesting or not! And no distracted doorman will get in my way.

I went home to check my sources, and after confirming the existence of the catacombs, I returned the following week. Then there was a billboard advertising a tour of the catacombs, but the man at the door still replied to my request to see them with “why?” and “there is nothing to see”. And the more explanatory “there is only darkness”. Having other things on my agenda that day, I allowed myself to be persuaded by that useless answer. But like a certain pokerfaced Austrian in a leather jacket – I will be back. And I will find out what they are hiding, because if I have learned anything from visiting Lithuania frequently it is this: When they say “There is nothing to see” they really mean “There is something to see, but we for some reason do not want to show it to you”.

 

(Once again, all pictures are from www.wikipedia.org, awaiting the relocation of my own photos)