The Curonian spit in one day

Yes, it is possible, although not advisable. I usually recommend spending more than one day. But then again, sometimes a day is all you have.

The Curonian spit - possible to cover in a day

Assuming that Klaipeda is your base and that you are organizing the excursion yourself, you first of all need transportation. Busses not belonging to tourist parties are few and far between on the spit, so if you didn`t bring your own car you should rent one. Or a motorcycle, if there is only one or two of you.

The Ferry from Klaipeda to the Curonian spit

If driving is not an option, there is a boat route from Klaipeda to the Sea Museum which allows you to visit the northern tip of the spit on foot. This does however not allow you to visit the small fishing villages further south, as they are too far away to reach without transportation.

Set off early. Most of the people going to the Curonian spit come from further away than Klaipeda, so the busiest time on the ferry is not until later in the day. Leaving just after the morning rush in the city is perhaps a good idea. Then keep driving all the way until you reach Nida.

Nida - the place to start

In Nida you will find enough things to do to keep you entertained until it`s time for lunch. Preferably, an early lunch. Have a walk in the village itself and visit a museum or two, like for instance the Thomas Mann museum. A visit to the white dunes is also recommended, but those are outside the village so that you can do on your way back.

The Nida dunes

After walking around for a few hours, you will probably start remembering what products you need from the nearest shop to endure the rest of the day. Like water, suncream, new shoes and similar. Luckily, Nida is the only place on the Curonian spit that has a proper shop, and a visit there might be in order before having luch. The area around the pier has several good places for that purpose, and I recommend a lavish plate of herring. This is a fishing community, after all.

Traditional fishing community architecture in Nida

After dinner, it is time to leave and head north again. Check the white dunes on the way out, and the beach if you have to. Neither should take up too much of your time. The next stop is Preila, only about six kilometers away. Take a quick walk through the village, have a cup of coffe or glas beer (if someone else is driving, that is), and make a quick visit to the beach if you want to.  A visit to the beach usually has no place in a one day program, but if you are hell bent on doing so anyway you should do it in Nida if you want fine sand, or in one of the smaller villages if you want peace and quiet. I recommend the quiet beaches, like the one in Preila.

Preila beach

From Preila you head towards Pervalka, some five kilometers further north. If you`ve wasted time on the beach and is starting to feel hungry again, it`s not a bad idea to eat here. Cold beetroot soup or herring I must recommend once again. Mostly because the best herring I have ever had was served to me in a restaurant in Pervalka. Walk the streets of the village and enjoy the great view of the Curonian lagoon before it is time to get back on the road yet again.

The beach is not bad in Pervalka either

This time for a bit longer drive. About 15 kilometers further north lies the village of Juodkrantė, and there you should spend at least a couple of hours. This place also has a nice beach promenade, and in combination with the expanding sculpture park, it offers good opportunities for a scenic walk. If you are in the mood for food, this is also the place to but smoked fish, which is a local speciality. I recommend smoked eel, although they sell at outrageous prices these days. Probably because they are hard to come by legally in other countries these days.

Having smoked eel in Juodkrante

Don`t speed too much, even though everybody else does, and make sure to make a complete stop at the stop sign by the toll booth. The police here seem to be rather active these days. Also, those paying close attention will have noticed a pattern in my recommendations for the villages on the spit – you should walk through all of them. The reason for this is that walking and observing is how I think time is best spent if you only have one day to visit the Curonian spit. You want to see the place, and not waste time looking through souvenir shops and improvised museums that basically look more or less the same all over the country.

The promenade in Joudkrante

At the end of the day, if there is still time, go to the northernmost point on the spit and enjoy the view to Klaipeda. The Sea museum will probably be closed by then, but if it isn`t it is well worth a visit. If you spend the extra Euros and time on a visit to the dolphinarium, you will not regret it. Although the view is the main point, that and the realization that this is all you would have seen of the Curonian spit had you not rented that car.

What Klaipeda looks like from the tip of the spit

And that, ladies and gentlemen, is how you cover the entire Curonian spit in just one a day.

The best place to visit while in Kaunas

I was skeptical at first, but now I have seen the light! When TripAdvisor first told me several years ago that the modest looking, awkwardly located open air museum of Rumšiškės was the best attraction to visit while in Kaunas, I assumed it was some kind of computer error. Some odd result caused by the fact that so few people visit this this particular area. As it turns out, those who do are rather impressed, and for good reason.



Rumšiškės open air museum

This is no half-assed attraction hastily put together to attract tourists in order to make quick profits. This is a high quality preservation project dating back to soviet times, which probably cost a fortune both to establish and to run. Anyone interested in history, architecture, ethnography or similar oddities will love it. People capable of appreciating the beauty and tranquility of traditional rural life will probably also appreciate it quite a bit, while others are perhaps best advised to stay away.



Cash is king at Rumšiškės

The first rule of thumb is to bring cash! They do not accept cards in this place. After all, it is a traditional museum. They do not understand this modern concept of “money that you cannot see”, but prefer money “in the hand” instead. This caused my first visit to Rumšiškės to become a complete failure, since all I had was my trusty Visa. In my ignorance, I thought that this would be sufficient, since most Places nowadays (even in Lithuania) have cash machines. However, the appropriately elderly lady at the entrance could inform me that the closest cash machine was in Kaunas city center. Which for the record is quite far away.



Get the tickets that allow you to bring the car

Upon returning with hard cash a week later, I was eventually allowed to enter. This time as a big spender since I was previously turned down because of my lack of cash, and so I consequently bought the most expensive tickets - those that allow you to drive Your car around the museum. And I would recommend all visitor who can afford it to do the same! Particularly if you are visiting With small children. The area is huge and it takes forever to walk through it all. With a car, you can cover the entire place in a few hours, but on foot it will take the entire day if not more. 

A typical Rumšiškės building

Another way to enter the museum is by boat from Kaunas. I have not tried this myself, but it is probably a both comfortable and scenic way of getting there. For this reason, the museum has its own port, but other than that, there are few if any maritime items on display. Most of the exhibits are farm related.

The replicated village

An exception to this is the replicated village square with a few more urban buildings. Among them is the museums bookstore, which has a large collection of books dealing with Lithuanian history and ethnography. The staff here is well informed, as in deed most employees here, and very helpful.

The Rumšiškės bookstore

Also, don`t forget to visit the restaurant. They offer traditional Lithuanian food and drinks at a very modest price, and there is an area for children to play outside. The premises are big, so this a place where you can bring a large group of people. You will probably have to wait a while for your food, but then again – this museum takes all day anyway.

The restaurant

Also, try to find the Siberian yurt while you are there. This building is a bit of an oddity at the museum, and placed a bit away from the other exhibits, but there should be a sign. It should be of interest for all who are into old building techniques. It may not be open, and there might be no staff around, so if you want to see the yurt from the inside it`s probably a good idea to ask about this before you enter the museum.

The siberian yurt

All in all, this is by far the Lithuanian museum with the most unleashed potential. The items on display are great, the staff is well informed, the surroundings are beautiful, the area is huge with lots of empty space, and still – almost no visitors? We were practically all alone! There were more staff than visitors! This is outrageous, because you cannot truly claim to have seen Lithuania without having visited Rumšiškės.

Windmill at Rumšiškės

  

The elusive catacombs of Kaunas

The very word catacombs has a somewhat appealing effect on many people, myself included. They are usually associated with both secret activities and hidden treasures, although perhaps more correctly defined as “human-made subterranean passageways for religious practice, commonly used as burial grounds”. That description might not spell tourist attraction to most people, but then again – tourists in Lithuania do to tend to descend on the country’s many churches. Which must be said to be the above ground alternative of a catacomb. So one could assume that in the catacombs, you would get the same experience, the only difference being that you are deprived of lighting and placed in a confined space under ground.  Being a tourist seeking the unusual, even if this also sometimes means the impractical, I was of course interested.




From the outside it is an impressive church, which fuels the optimism regarding the alleged catacombs beneath



In a country that by Scandinavian standards is flat as a pancake, and where the ground water seems only to be a few shovel throws away, the very idea of creating catacombs seems rather futile. I was therefore pleasantly surprised when wikitravel.org could reveal the existence of catacombs beneath the Church of St. Michael the Archangel in Kaunas. The large and impractical building commonly known as Soboras at the southern end of Laisves Avenue. My first attempts at entering the catacombs started in 2007.

 

As one can see, not the most staggering of interiors. All white walls do not really spell success as a background on Instagram.

At first, I was completely unsuccessful, since none of the locals I talked to had ever heard about such catacombs. They probably thought I was confused. During later visits, I made sporadic attempts at entering the building, but always found it closed. Since this is more of a local religious institution, rather than a tourist sight, it caters mostly to worshipers. And they, as we know, like to keep awkward opening hours. Eventually, during the winter of 2011, I was able to gain access during mass for the first time. Only to be told by the staff that they “had never heard of any catacombs”.



Beneath this colossal pile of bricks lays the elusive catacombs. I will enter then one day, and by God I will examine them. Whether they be even remotely interesting or not! And no distracted doorman will get in my way.

I went home to check my sources, and after confirming the existence of the catacombs, I returned the following week. Then there was a billboard advertising a tour of the catacombs, but the man at the door still replied to my request to see them with “why?” and “there is nothing to see”. And the more explanatory “there is only darkness”. Having other things on my agenda that day, I allowed myself to be persuaded by that useless answer. But like a certain pokerfaced Austrian in a leather jacket – I will be back. And I will find out what they are hiding, because if I have learned anything from visiting Lithuania frequently it is this: When they say “There is nothing to see” they really mean “There is something to see, but we for some reason do not want to show it to you”.

 

(Once again, all pictures are from www.wikipedia.org, awaiting the relocation of my own photos)

The geographical center of Europe

 

Many years ago, tour bus drivers in Norway decided that they needed a suitable stop for tourists between the two main attractions of Bergen and Flåm. Accoring to legend, they decided to start misinforming tourists that the waterfall Twindefossen carried water with qualities similar to those found in Viagra pills. The results were immediate (results from the misinforming rumor, that is, not from the water itself). Tourists willingly flocked to the waterfall, filling whatever vessels were at hand with its alleged miracle water. Tvindefossen is in fact a shining example of how an attraction for tour busses can be created out of almost nothing. Lithuanians have attempted a similar trick, and I am honored to present you with…”The geographical center of Europe” – The Lithuanian version.



A rather panegyric claim to be the center of something which apparently is nowhere to be seen – Europe. And most villagers should hope that it stays that way  

How anyone in their right mind can claim to have found the center of something with disputed and largely undefinable outer limits is beyond me, but such trifles did not stop a bunch of French scientists in the late 1980s. They proudly claimed to have located the center of Europe, and surprisingly enough it was nowhere near what most of us refer to as “Central Europe”. Against all common beliefs, it proved to be somewhere called Bernotai, outside of Vilnius. Luckily enough, it was close to both a road and the village itself. Quite a coincidence, since most random spots in Lithuania are close to neither. The French scientists could have ended up in the middle of the forest, but didn`t even miss proximity to the road.

 

In all respects, the most likely geographical center of Europe would look something like this

Other pioneers across Europe have also remained undeterred by the fact that stipulating the center of Europe is utter nonsense, and have presented their own calculations. Most of them resulting in finding this center remarkably close to home. Often in their hometown. The consequence of this phenomenon is that the geographical center of Europe today can be visited in over 10 countries and at more than 20 different locations.



One of the many geograpfical centers of Europe which tourists have long since forgotten about.
This one can be found in Germany, also mysteriously close to the road

The reason for all of this confusion is of course that there are many ways of calculating where the geographical center of Europe is. So many in fact, that I have even succeeded in coming up with a way of my own, and in not very long I expect to be able to prove that the geographical center of, not only Europe but also the world, is in fact located in the very middle of the Lithuanian village of Naujatriobiai. Where, as luck will have it, an old soviet well gives water with qualities not unlike those found in Viagra.



Naujatriobiai. The center of the world, and home of the "water of life"
 

(All pictures are courtesy of Wikipedia Commons, since I was either lacking a camera or good judgment when the locations depicted)

Botanical garden, Kaunas

Although somewhat out of the way, and despite not being among the most advertised attractions, the botanical garden is well worth a visit. That is, if you are even remotely interested in plants and gardening. Compared to similar facilities in other countries it can of course not be said to hold world class, but it has some interesting specimens and can offer nice scenery.




The building it self might look shitty, but then again - the most beatiful roses grow in the shit

The main building seems to be a relic from soviet times,when functionality and durability often prevailed over aesthetics, but both the exhibits and the surrounding park is well maintained. The buildings on the other hand is a different matter. Some of them are in bad need of maintenance, and are well over due for an upgrade.




Overgrown gutters and a leaky outdoor lamp. Enough to remind a Norwegian farmer of home.

 

There is no restaurant in this site, so if you are spending some time here I suggest you bring your own food. If you come in summer, there are plenty of good spots for a small picnic. You should however not overeat, at least not is you are a frail person, since the restrooms here hold a rather simple standard. To such an extent in fact, that one unavoidably puts it in connection with the institutions constant need for good compost.

 

 

A well nourished tree

The surrounding park is an excellent place to come for photo sessions, particularly in autumn. Trees and bushes from various countries offer many good background colors, and the park is in my mind underappreciated among local hobby photographers.

 




Plenty of good spots to take photographs in the park. And the props are all around.

As is so often the case in Lithuania, this attraction has also tried to increase its appeal by adding other elements to its display. Elements that does not necessarily relate at all to the main theme of the place. In the case of the botanical garden can be mentioned for instance: The imprisoned owl, the bored turtles, the hiding gold fish, the apparently dead reptiles, and of course Rocky VII – the goat with the punching bag. Although goats allegedly are unable to survive in Lithuania due to some kind of ticks (according to many locals), this particular goat seems to be doing fine.





What? Are goats out of place in a botanical garden, you say?
Well, tell it to this guy!

Overall, the botanical garden in Kaunas is a nice and relaxing place to spend time. I recommend you do so, if you have time to spare.

Rated: Recommended

 

The Lithuanian countryside

A visit to the countryside always gives a good insight into the lives of ordinary people in any given country. I therefore make a point of going to some random villages whenever I visit a new country and has a chance to do so. In the case of Lithuania, I was pleasantly surprised. Although many villages clearly have seen better times, it is obvious that the country holds great potential for development in agriculture. The soil is good and the forests are well maintained, even though some houses look like they are about to collapse on the occupants heads.



Where the paved road ends, is often where the fun begins. I would recommend just picking a place at random

 

Some people might view my excursions to the villages as a form of slumming, but one should keep in mind that I come from a country where rural life is idealized as “the real way to live” – for various reasons. This is however, a concept totally lost on most Lithuanians. It seems that city life has a much higher status in this country, and that many people dread having to live in a village. Because of this, you will most likely be met with confused looks if you as a Lithuanian to help organize a visit to some remote village. Unless you know someone there, he will most likely not understand why you would make such a preposterous request. “There is nothing to see!”




Nothing to see? Pay attention to the forest behind the farmhouse – it is full of narrow gravel roads.

 

There is in fact plenty to see. Both on the way there, and in the village itself. You get a perception of how ordinary people live that most tourists never will get. They usually turn back once they come to the end of the paved road, and realizes the beating the car will take from the gravel road. Should you decide to go on such an outing, I suggest bringing a map. If the place you have chosen is any good, you will almost certainly be lost. Unless you bring a guide, of course.



Most tourists prefer such roads. Look familiar, don`t they.

 

Driving on the smaller forest roads are also gives you a good chance to see some Lithuanian wildlife without even leaving the car. It`s not like you are likely to see a bears and European buffalos or anything, but foxes, deer and various birds of prey are rather common. A good way to locate there roads is through Google Maps, since they are not marked on all roadmaps.



There are plenty of these around, but they prefer rural surroundings.

 

And even if you brought your own car, rent one if you are going on a long rural safari. The reasons for this will be self-evident once you reach the gravel road. Unless of course you own a Land Rover or something similar.

Rating: Recommended

Trakai Castle

This must be the most popular tourist attraction in Lithuania, even though The Hill of Crosses probably gives it a run for its money. The reasons for this are simple, and more or less give an outline of how one creates an attraction for mass tourism:





Trakai castle. The number of visitors increased significantly after they built the wooden bridge.

1.       It is fully adapted for tourist busses, making it capable to handle many visitors at the same time

2.       it is located near the capital, where most visitors enter and leave the country

3.       It is not far from the main road between the two largest cities in the country, making it a natural place for a tour bus to stop

4.       It offers great backgrounds for photos (after all, tourists don`t want pictures of interesting objects,  but rather photos of themselves with the interesting object in the background)   

5.       There are plenty of souvenirs to buy

6.       There are plenty of places to eat

7.       The place has a history that makes it interesting

8.       You do not need to know a lot of this history in advance in order to enjoy the place




A typical example of a historical exhibit which is totally irrelevant to the average tourist, unless he himself is in the picture.  

I have visited Trakai several times, both during the tourist season and the off-season, and I find it to be a beautiful place regardless of when you visit. I do however recommend spending more time there than most people do, and leave some time for walking around and having something to eat. For that reason it is probably best to visit during summer, when all the shops and restaurants are open.



Kibinai are the thing to eat in Trakai. Allegedly invented by the Karaim people, who are now so rare that restaurants have to use cardboard cutouts of them to create an authentic atmosphere, they anyway taste delicious. As meat wrapped in dough usually does.

I also strongly recommend renting some kind of boat or kayak if you have some experience with such vessels. They will give you an opportunity to view both the city and the castle from the water, and the lake is just big enough for such activities.

 






The boat of my choice in Trakai



 

Woodworking enthusiasts should set aside the whole day for a visit to Trakai, since the city has many old and protected wooden buildings. These buildings may not be as extravagant as or lavishly decorated as those found in many other cities in Europe, but they do have some originality. You can quite often see nice decorations made with simple means.

 



Unlike many decorative features on wooden houses in the west, Trakai decorations usually do not take forever to paint. And are probably less of a pain in the ass for their owners.

 

 

And if you are lucky, and travelling by car, you stumble into Trakai on a day when the place is packed with people. Since the entire place is protected, there are strict rules when it comes to not only erecting buildings, but also creating new parking spaces. And as a result, it can be difficult to find parking spaces on busy days. But fear not, nice (but strict!) old ladies like this one will come to the rescue:




NOBODY will dare to mess with Your car if you leave it with this lady.

 

Local inhabitants, whose houses were built before the area was protected, will offer you to park in their yard for a modest fee. You agree about a price and how long you are going to stay, and you can leave the safe hands of the grandma of your choice. After paying, you should not be surprised if she also tries to sell you tomatoes or cucumbers, or offers you to rent a room for the night.

 



Pictures like this one…most visitors have them. You almost need Jesus walking past on the water to raise an eyebrow.

 

This is the kind of place that one has to visit, at least since everyone else does. Everyone comes back from Lithuania with pictures of Trakai castle. If you want to distinguish yourself from these victims of mass tourism – take time to explore the city, and show the pictures of all the interesting parts of it they did not have time to look at.  It will at least make you feel less shallow and mainstream.

 Rated: Must see

 

Napoleon's Hill, Kaunas

Well, it’s a hill. And Napoleon may or may not have been here. According to legend, this is anyway the spot where L'Empereur stood and watched his army cross the Nemunas river during the 1812 campaign against Russia. A move which in many ways marked the start of the offensive that would eventually lead to his downfall.




There is a sign at the foot of the hill, and that is pretty much it. No pretentious exhibitions, no posters full of sensational claims of possible historical importance. Just a simple sign and some maple trees.

It is in many ways a good spot for an emperor with a sense of drama to witness such an event, since it gives a good view of both the river and the city. With its staggering 63 meters it is one of the highest points around. Aside from the name, there is however little on the hill that reminds of Napoleon. Visitors looking to get closer to the man himself would be better advised to go to his tomb in Paris.



More Maple trees

Those looking to get closer to his dream of concoring Russian would on the other hand greatly benefit from a visit to his hill in Kaunas. From here such a task can seem possible. Standing on a hill, overlooking an almost invincible army about to cross a seemingly mighty river.





So many maple trees in fact, that if Napoleon were to invade Russia today he would probably not choose this place as a lookout point. After all, nowadays you can hardly even see the river.  

 

According to Tolstoj, the river even proved its might at that occation. According to him, a number of polish cavalerymen lost their lives while trying to cross it at a narrow but rather dangerous bend. Only so they could later boast that they were the first unit to cross into Russia.

 

 

 

The hill from a distance

 

The hill itself seems to be the remains of an old hillfort. I am no expert in these matters, but experience has taught me that in this part of the world – if there are no other, similar hills around – you are usually dealing with a hillfort. It is anyway a beautiful place with a good (although not spectacular) view. The place is a “must see” for Napoleonic enthusiasts, and more of a “whatever” for most other people.

 Rated: “Mostly for enthusiasts”