The Curonian spit in one day

Yes, it is possible, although not advisable. I usually recommend spending more than one day. But then again, sometimes a day is all you have.

The Curonian spit - possible to cover in a day

Assuming that Klaipeda is your base and that you are organizing the excursion yourself, you first of all need transportation. Busses not belonging to tourist parties are few and far between on the spit, so if you didn`t bring your own car you should rent one. Or a motorcycle, if there is only one or two of you.

The Ferry from Klaipeda to the Curonian spit

If driving is not an option, there is a boat route from Klaipeda to the Sea Museum which allows you to visit the northern tip of the spit on foot. This does however not allow you to visit the small fishing villages further south, as they are too far away to reach without transportation.

Set off early. Most of the people going to the Curonian spit come from further away than Klaipeda, so the busiest time on the ferry is not until later in the day. Leaving just after the morning rush in the city is perhaps a good idea. Then keep driving all the way until you reach Nida.

Nida - the place to start

In Nida you will find enough things to do to keep you entertained until it`s time for lunch. Preferably, an early lunch. Have a walk in the village itself and visit a museum or two, like for instance the Thomas Mann museum. A visit to the white dunes is also recommended, but those are outside the village so that you can do on your way back.

The Nida dunes

After walking around for a few hours, you will probably start remembering what products you need from the nearest shop to endure the rest of the day. Like water, suncream, new shoes and similar. Luckily, Nida is the only place on the Curonian spit that has a proper shop, and a visit there might be in order before having luch. The area around the pier has several good places for that purpose, and I recommend a lavish plate of herring. This is a fishing community, after all.

Traditional fishing community architecture in Nida

After dinner, it is time to leave and head north again. Check the white dunes on the way out, and the beach if you have to. Neither should take up too much of your time. The next stop is Preila, only about six kilometers away. Take a quick walk through the village, have a cup of coffe or glas beer (if someone else is driving, that is), and make a quick visit to the beach if you want to.  A visit to the beach usually has no place in a one day program, but if you are hell bent on doing so anyway you should do it in Nida if you want fine sand, or in one of the smaller villages if you want peace and quiet. I recommend the quiet beaches, like the one in Preila.

Preila beach

From Preila you head towards Pervalka, some five kilometers further north. If you`ve wasted time on the beach and is starting to feel hungry again, it`s not a bad idea to eat here. Cold beetroot soup or herring I must recommend once again. Mostly because the best herring I have ever had was served to me in a restaurant in Pervalka. Walk the streets of the village and enjoy the great view of the Curonian lagoon before it is time to get back on the road yet again.

The beach is not bad in Pervalka either

This time for a bit longer drive. About 15 kilometers further north lies the village of Juodkrantė, and there you should spend at least a couple of hours. This place also has a nice beach promenade, and in combination with the expanding sculpture park, it offers good opportunities for a scenic walk. If you are in the mood for food, this is also the place to but smoked fish, which is a local speciality. I recommend smoked eel, although they sell at outrageous prices these days. Probably because they are hard to come by legally in other countries these days.

Having smoked eel in Juodkrante

Don`t speed too much, even though everybody else does, and make sure to make a complete stop at the stop sign by the toll booth. The police here seem to be rather active these days. Also, those paying close attention will have noticed a pattern in my recommendations for the villages on the spit – you should walk through all of them. The reason for this is that walking and observing is how I think time is best spent if you only have one day to visit the Curonian spit. You want to see the place, and not waste time looking through souvenir shops and improvised museums that basically look more or less the same all over the country.

The promenade in Joudkrante

At the end of the day, if there is still time, go to the northernmost point on the spit and enjoy the view to Klaipeda. The Sea museum will probably be closed by then, but if it isn`t it is well worth a visit. If you spend the extra Euros and time on a visit to the dolphinarium, you will not regret it. Although the view is the main point, that and the realization that this is all you would have seen of the Curonian spit had you not rented that car.

What Klaipeda looks like from the tip of the spit

And that, ladies and gentlemen, is how you cover the entire Curonian spit in just one a day.

Kaunas

In many ways, this is the Lithuanian heartlands. People from Šiauliai or Panevėžys would probably disagree, since they are reputed to view themselves as more Lithuanian than most other Lithuanians, but Kaunas is still the center of the traditional Lithuanian nation. Manifested for instance by the fact that the city was used as a an improvised capital when the actual capital Vilnius, situated in a more marginal area largely populated by poles, was lost for a period of time in the turbulent years between the two world wars. In those days, Lithuanians retreated to what in many ways can be called the Lithuanian Alamo – Kaunas. Many of the more majestic buildings in the city were erected during its years as capital.

  



Kaunas old town during the Christmas holiday

 

 

 

As is so often the case, nobody knows for sure how old the city is. Local legends claim it to be almost 2000 years old, and somehow connected to Romans in exile, while others claim it was founded around 1030. In other words a difference in time of almost 1000 years. The roman connection seems a little far-fetched to me, so I am more inclined to believe the 1030-ish story. This at least, more or less, coincides with the introduction of Christianity in Scandinavia and the end of the Viking invasions, and similar reasons as to why a city would be founded it this particular place at that particular time. Kaunas would have been easy to reach with Viking vessels from the Curonian lagoon, going up the Nemunas river.




The Nemunas river. Despite being a shallow river, it would still have allowed Vikings to Reach Kaunas. Had it been there at the time

The possibility of navigating up this river is also illustrated by the fact that the Hanseatic League stretched as far as Kaunas, which in turn is the most likely explanation to why the city has a medieval sailing ship in its coat of arms. This was actually the only Lithuanian city they bothered to establish a permanent office in during their reign as merchant kings in northern Europe, so Kaunas must have been either very significant, or the other Lithuanian cities were very insignificant at the time.



After visiting the old town, you can walk back along the riverbank. Ending up in the shopping mall Akropolis, from which the picture is taken

Visitors should spend at least a couple of days in Kaunas. Walk the streets, visit the museums and shops, and have some good food in the better (but not too flashy) restaurants. A good walking route is starting at the church commonly called Soboras, walking along the avenue until you reach the old town, then going through the park, and heading back along the banks of the Nemunas. Ending up in the Akropolis mall. This will give you a diverse insight into parts of Lithuanian society.



The backside of the Kaunas old town. Some might actually prefer it to the front.

What you want to see in Kaunas depends on who you are. If you are Japanese, you would want to see the house of Sugihara, if you are French you would probably want to visit Napoleons hill. Nerds like the museum of telecommunications, and teenagers want to go shopping. If I were to suggest a place to visit for everyone, it would have to be the old town. As a part of an extensive walk around the city center. 

 



A part of the old town. Most people agree that it`s nice

Where you want to stay also depends on who you are and what preferences you have. If you are rather spoiled and inclined to complain about such everyday trifles the occasional absence of hot water, the lack of TV-channels in understandable languages or an unreliable internet connection, you should choose one of the more exclusive hotels. They keep to western standards, but you should also be prepared to pay western prices. Personally, I would go for one of the traditional or smaller hotels. The standard is quite acceptable for most people, and the money you will save will give you much more joy if spent for instance in the many restaurants in Kaunas.




You will most likely run into this man during your visit to Kaunas. Please give him something more original to hold on to than an empty paper cup

Recommended related post: Palanga

Klaipėda

Klaipėda is Lithuania’s third largest city, and the only port city in the country. Although previously known as the German Memel, it ended up on Lithuanian hands as an indirect result of the German defeat in WW1. After a long and confusing process, of course. This is after all Eastern Europe, where even recent events have shown that borders can be far from permanent. The city, as in deed Lithuania itself, changed hands again a number of times during the rest of the 1900s.



The statue of Ännchen von Tharau. Perhaps the most iconic image from Klaipėda. The original statue was allegedly removed because Hitler, while giving a speach from the veranda in the background, found it offensive that the statue was not facing him. Other dictators, with even better eventplanners, would perhaps have turned the statue around in advace.

This complicated past is the main reason for the heavy presence of Russians in this city, and the considerable influence of German culture. Above all in the old town, which seems to be rather well preserved. The old town and the city center in general are both among the most accessible sites to visit, but for those willing to venture a bit outside of the city, the maritime museum should be well worth a visit.

 



The port city of Klaipėda, seen from the location of the sea. In other words - the museum is not within walking distance

Visitors with preferences a bit out of the ordinary will probably enjoy attractions such as the blacksmith museum (which I haven`t visited yet, but intend to enjoy on general principle), or the clock museum. There is also some work going on in the ruins of the old Memel castle, and in time this will probably also be among Klaipeda’s main attractions, but when I visited there was not much to see.  



Meridianas. Klaipėda has one large sailing ship - this is it, and most of the time it does not seem to be sailing at all.

The city in general appears rather modern, and it seems the local economy is going rather well. At least if one judges by the many new, and often surprisingly tall, buildings. Property prices are also quite high in comparison to other cities in the region, and these things add to the impression of Klaipeda being a dynamic place. Like most port cities, it seems to be facing the outside world, rather than having its attention elsewhere.



One of the more innovative parts of the Klaipedian skyline.

Klaipeda is on the other hand a rather small city, and there is not really that much to see. Still it is well worth a visit, at least for a day. But make sure to come in summer. I visited in winter and it was cold as hell. Then again, few cities are charming enough to not look a bit depressive in winter.

Recommended related posts: The nearby "city" of Neringa

Neringa

This narrow strip of land just outside of Klaipeda is for some technical reason regarded as a city, in spite of only consisting of a small string of communities that can barely qualify as villages. Nevertheless, Neringa still deserves to be recognized by travelers as one of the more desirable places to visit in Lithuania.



A normal day at the beach in Neringa. Compared to the nearby beach of Palanga, the difference is striking.

With sand dunes in one end, the Lithuanian sea museum in the other end, and plenty of beaches and villages in between, the relaxed traveler can easily fill a week in this place. Starting from the south, the main villages are Nida, Preila, Pervalka, Juodkrantė. Although they are all worth a visit, Nida and Juodkrantė are the most significant ones.




Neringa has a lot to offer. There is even a nudist beach, for those who have a need to show the world how liberated they are. Why the People on the sign are dressed remains a mystery. It`s probably from soviet times.



 

My recommendation is the village of Joudkrante. It has good accommodations, and there is a bit of activity in the evenings. Nida has a more active nightlife and more activities going on, but I have never understood why people who seek such fuzz even bother to go to Neringa. I guess it is some sort of a more exclusive alternative to Palanga for people with a bit more money.

 



Nida harbour. Not exacly Curonian traditional architecture, but still the most popular place on the penninsula.

Since this is a bit of an exclusive area, it is also rather safe. It is an expensive area to live in, so common criminals can`t afford to do so, and the price to enter the peninsula is so outrageous that most of them probably stay out. In Neringa it is instead the state that is robbing you, but in turn it robs everyone. Access to the peninsula is by ferry, unless of course you come from the Russian side through Kaliningrad, there is only one road and it has a checkpoint - so they will get you.



One of the two ferries taking people to Neringa. Remember to feed the (by Norwegian standards) ridiculously small seagulls on the short trip across the sound.

Originally a fishing community, Neringa used to be a quiet place that attracted few visitors. More or less impoverished fishermen would trap eels or trawl for other fish in the Curonian lagoon, or try their luck on the more open waters of the Baltic. The population consisted of mostly migrated Germans and the native Kuršininkai, both of which were evicted from the area following WW2.





There is still some Professional Fishing taking Place in Neringa, but todays vessels are largely older soviet motorized vessels. In many ways a far cry from traditional fishing in the area. 

After that, the area became a place of recreation for official from the communist party, and this tradition was continued after the Lithuanian return to independence. The place is still a holiday destination for the more privileged, but those are now people with money rather than party officials. And luckily for us, foreigner are now welcome.  Even Germans in fact, and many take the opportunity to visit the home of their ancestral lands. And since Germans are known to have I bit of money, I guess there are good reasons for the propertyprices being outrageous in this area.




A restaurant in Juodkrantė. If it was for sale, the asking price would surprise even the most optimistic property developers.

 

Russians also seem to love spending time in Neringa, or perhaps they just like the fact that people who go there have a bit of money. There are at least quite a few of them around, even among locals. Despite the fact that there are no long traditions for Russian settlements in the area. The traditional way of life which is celebrated here, in form of for instance smoked eel, Curonian boats, weathervanes and such, all relates to the ethnic Germans or the Kuršininkai.

 

A modern boat, made to look like the traditional Curonian boats

The Germans were all evicted, and from the entire group of ethnic Kuršininkai there is said to be only nine people left alive. This raises a few questions about the celebration of Neringas old traditions – who owns them, and who does the territory of Neringa rightfully belong to? The nine  Kuršininkai? The descendants of the now largely diseased German population, who have hardly even set foot in the place? My best answers would be that the land technically belongs to Lithuania. Any other solutions does not seem practically possible. The traditions however belong to the world, as indeed has been recognized by the granting of UNESCO status to the entire area some years back.  

UNESCO monument in Juodkrantė

 Recommended related post: Palanga

Palanga

Although Lithuania has a rather modest shoreline, this is where the action takes place in summer. Mostly in the city of Palanga. There are even places for people who don`t want any action, but those are more secluded and a bit more up market. Being the number one resort city (in the more common understanding of the Word, that is) of Lithuania, Palanga is the place to go for people who want the BEACH. People, parties, hustle and bustle included.




Palanga beach. With seemingly clear, blue water, despite the apparent absence of restrooms. 

Since Lithuania’s coastline is a sandy beach from one end to another, one can easily pitch a tent in some remote location and find solitude. If on the other hand you want the infrastructure of a resort city, Palanga is where you want to go. Here there are food, drinks, entertainment, shopping opportunities, spa treatments and the like. Along with a mix noisy children, drunk men and fuzzy women - confined in an owecrowded area.




Probably the most popular Beach in Lithuania. You rather need to be a "people-person" to enjoy this type of thing. At least there are plenty of "Cold cebureks and warm alus" at hand.

 

The main cultural attraction in Palanga is the Tiškevičiai Palace, which is home to both an amber museum and a rose garden. Neither of which are, in all honesty, particularly interesting to the common tourist. The rose garden now shamelessly claims to be a botanical garden, despite not not having much other botanical material on display than the roses, and the amber museum fails in even convincing visitors that amber is so remarkable that it deserves a separate museum. Most vistiors just end up taking a picture outside. With the nice statue that is not related to either of the museums.



The castle in Palanga. Despite being a horrific example of social injustice, it survived soviet times.
Nowadays, it should be quite safe.

The heart of the city is a main street, which ends in a nice pier. If I recall correctly, its name is Basanavičius street. It is filled with all kinds of restaurants and shops, and in combination with the nearby beach it is all you will ever need. For a careless visit, just book a hotel within walking distance, and enjoy yourself. Cepelins, vodka, and the beach is all within an arm’s length. What more can the common visitor desire?




No such resort would be complete without a pier.

If you like people more than nature, this is the place for you. If your preferences are opposite, you will be better off elsewhere. For instance somewhere in Neringa.