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Tuesday, 19 July 2016

The Curonian spit in one day


Yes, it is possible, although not advisable. I usually recommend spending more than one day. But then again, sometimes a day is all you have.


A one day visit to the Curonian spit
The Curonian spit - possible to cover in a day

Assuming that Klaipeda is your base and that you are organizing the excursion yourself, you first of all need transportation. Busses not belonging to tourist parties are few and far between on the spit, so if you didn`t bring your own car you should rent one. Or a motorcycle, if there is only one or two of you.


Ferry Lithuania
The Ferry from Klaipeda to the Curonian spit

If driving is not an option, there is a boat route from Klaipeda to the Sea Museum which allows you to visit the northern tip of the spit on foot. This does however not allow you to visit the small fishing villages further south, as they are too far away to reach without transportation.
Set off early. Most of the people going to the Curonian spit come from further away than Klaipeda, so the busiest time on the ferry is not until later in the day. Leaving just after the morning rush in the city is perhaps a good idea. Then keep driving all the way until you reach Nida.


A one day programme to the curonian spit
Nida - the place to start

In Nida you will find enough things to do to keep you entertained until it`s time for lunch. Preferably, an early lunch. Have a walk in the village itself and visit a museum or two, like for instance the Thomas Mann museum. A visit to the white dunes is also recommended, but those are outside the village so that you can do on your way back.


The Nida dunes

After walking around for a few hours, you will probably start remembering what products you need from the nearest shop to endure the rest of the day. Like water, suncream, new shoes and similar. Luckily, Nida is the only place on the Curonian spit that has a proper shop, and a visit there might be in order before having luch. The area around the pier has several good places for that purpose, and I recommend a lavish plate of herring. This is a fishing community, after all.


Fake Nida houses
Traditional fishing community architecture in Nida

After dinner, it is time to leave and head north again. Check the white dunes on the way out, and the beach if you have to. Neither should take up too much of your time. The next stop is Preila, only about six kilometers away. Take a quick walk through the village, have a cup of coffe or glas beer (if someone else is driving, that is), and make a quick visit to the beach if you want to.  A visit to the beach usually has no place in a one day program, but if you are hell bent on doing so anyway you should do it in Nida if you want fine sand, or in one of the smaller villages if you want peace and quiet. I recommend the quiet beaches, like the one in Preila.


The beach in Preila
Preila beach

From Preila you head towards Pervalka, some five kilometers further north. If you`ve wasted time on the beach and is starting to feel hungry again, it`s not a bad idea to eat here. Cold beetroot soup or herring I must recommend once again. Mostly because the best herring I have ever had was served to me in a restaurant in Pervalka. Walk the streets of the village and enjoy the great view of the Curonian lagoon before it is time to get back on the road yet again.


The beach is not bad in Pervalka either


This time for a bit longer drive. About 15 kilometers further north lies the village of JuodkrantÄ—, and there you should spend at least a couple of hours. This place also has a nice beach promenade, and in combination with the expanding sculpture park, it offers good opportunities for a scenic walk. If you are in the mood for food, this is also the place to but smoked fish, which is a local speciality. I recommend smoked eel, although they sell at outrageous prices these days. Probably because they are hard to come by legally in other countries these days.

Having smoked eel in Juodkrante

Don`t speed too much, even though everybody else does, and make sure to make a complete stop at the stop sign by the toll booth. The police here seem to be rather active these days. Also, those paying close attention will have noticed a pattern in my recommendations for the villages on the spit – you should walk through all of them. The reason for this is that walking and observing is how I think time is best spent if you only have one day to visit the Curonian spit. You want to see the place, and not waste time looking through souvenir shops and improvised museums that basically look more or less the same all over the country.

Juodkrante bicycling
The promenade in Joudkrante
At the end of the day, if there is still time, go to the northernmost point on the spit and enjoy the view to Klaipeda. The Sea museum will probably be closed by then, but if it isn`t it is well worth a visit. If you spend the extra Euros and time on a visit to the dolphinarium, you will not regret it. Although the view is the main point, that and the realization that this is all you would have seen of the Curonian spit had you not rented that car.


Klaipeda cranes
What Klaipeda looks like from the tip of the spit

And that, ladies and gentlemen, is how you cover the entire Curonian spit in just one a day.

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